Revolutionary War Swords

The swords of the American Revolution were as much a badge of rank as a weapon, and the replicas here reproduce the smallswords, sabres and hangers carried by officers on both sides. The detailing on the hilt and the guard is the part that matters: originals were decorated to show rank, and a plain hilt on a decorated blade looks wrong.

These pieces display best in a case or on a plaque with the scabbard. Hanging a sword by the hilt alone puts all the weight on one point and the blade will gradually bend away from the scabbard. Support the scabbard as well and the piece will stay straight for years.

Bunker Hill Sword

$84.00

Choosing a Replica Sword or Blade

Replica swords are sold blunt by law in most markets, and that is worth remembering when a listing says battle ready. The blades here are stainless or carbon steel, unsharpened, with a rounded or chamfered edge, and they are meant for display, costume and drill. They will not cut, and they should never be struck against another blade.

Length and point of balance decide whether a sword feels right. A cavalry sabre balances forward and wants a wall plaque; a naval dirk or a letter opener balances in the fingers. If the sword is for a costume, check the scabbard fittings and the belt hanger at the same time, because the weight of a long blade will pull a light belt out of shape.

Common questions

Are the blades sharp?
No. All swords, daggers and knives in this section are supplied blunt for display and costume use, and the edges are not sharpened.

Can it be worn for reenactment?
Yes, with the correct belt or frog. Check the scabbard fittings and hanger weight before an event, and never strike another blade with it.

Will it rust?
Stainless models resist rust with normal care. Carbon steel models need a light oil film, especially in humid climates or coastal areas.

Revolutionary War Swords